Hallo aus Berlin! (Part 1)

An early start for us! We had a two-hour train ride to Berlin from Warnemünde. But, it gets exciting before we even leave. First, the train is literally meters from the gangway- Yay! Then, we discover Viking has coordinated for a chartered train! Yes! A chartered train for all 750 guests heading into Berlin! Who knew such a thing existed in a country with national rail.

Each coach car had a host or hostess, fresh coffee, and plenty of excitement as tour buddies discussed the day ahead. No surprise, my little group was so excited in our conversations that we were asked to keep it down! Hahaha

Upon arriving in Berlin, we were met by Jens Gustafsson of Conference & Touring. He was the tour guide extraordinaire! It didn’t seem to matter what traffic light our bus stopped at or where traffic slowed to a halt, Jens had a fast fact or wonderful story about the rich history of his hometown.

Once an infamous border city between East & West Germany, today Berlin is one of Europe’s most cosmopolitan and forward-thinking cultural capitals. When the Berlin Wall fell in 1989, a sweeping architectural and cultural transformation took hold. This is most powerfully symbolized in the Reichstag, Germany’s Parliament building. Its glass cupola symbolizes a new era of transparency and openness. Monuments of wartime are everywhere in this unique city. From the Wall to Checkpoint Charlie, and more. Pre-war treasures include the baroque Charlottenburg Palace and the 13th-century St. Nicholas Church. Straddling the Spree River and peppered with grand theaters, more than 175 museums (many found on Museum Island), and more bridges than can be found in Venice, Italy. My experience in Berlin was better than I imagined and I want to go back for a longer visit!

I was on the Historic Berlin Tour, which was sightseeing by coach and on foot. We spent the morning in the (old) East side of Berlin. Visiting historic sites such as the Brandenburg Gate, Kathe Kollwitz Pieta, the Bebelplatz, Humbolt University, and more.

As we drove into the city it was striking to see the architecture. At once it was very old and classical but juxtaposed against some of the most modern structures I have ever seen. It was also easy to see the austerity that still exists in the architecture in the “East”.

Our guide was honest and to the point about his country’s history. He noted that 25% of apartment buildings were constructed before WWI. Jens also shared that many Berliners still live with a daily reminder of WWII; in that many of the apartment buildings still have signage leading the way to bomb shelters still existing beneath their buildings! He was keen to point out that they are never far in memory from the dark days in Berlin. Another amazing figure is that 1/3 of Berlin’s population is poor and is on some form of state assistance.

News Flash: We were steps away from Angela Merkel’s home at this point!

Our first stop was the Central Memorial of the Federal Republic of Germany to the Victims of War and Tyranny in the Neue Wache. This Greek-esque temple on the Unter den Linden became the “memorial to the victims of fascism and militarism” and was transformed into a new memorial with this replica of Kathe Kollwitz’s Mother and Her Dead Son. The inscription reads, “To the victims of war and tyranny”. In 1969, the mortal remains of an unknown soldier and unknown concentration camp prisoner were laid to rest here. Their graves are surrounded by earth from the battlefields and concentration camps of WWII. This spacious, quiet space accompanied by the poignant sculpture was an experience of knowing our past history and a reminder that we must learn from the mistakes of war and move forward, but never forget those we have lost.

Across the street and up from this memorial is Bebelplatz. Overlooking this beautiful square is the entrance to Humboldt University of Berlin. This may not mean much to you so far, but this plaza was made infamous by the 1933 Nazi book burning. Today, a memorial by Micha Ullman consisting of a glass plate set into the cobbles gives you a view of empty bookcases (large enough to hold the total of 20,000 burnt books); and commemorates the book burning. The memorial itself is understated and without signage, which means you need to know what to look for here. To say that standing at the site of this Nazi atrocity was moving would be an understatement. It took my breath away to realize I was walking on the stones of history, but to see Humbolt University looking back at me… well, hope springs forward from the education of our past.

From here is was more scenic driving on our way to The Brandenburg Gate. This gate is the last of 18 gates that once stood as gateways around Berlin. The original symbolism of the gate represented Peace.

But, we remember it from the footage seen on AHC or in our history books as the site of grand parades of Nazi soldiers during WWII. Atop the gate is a Quadriga, a chariot drawn by four horses, sculpted by Johann Gottfried Schadow. The gate was originally named the Peace Gate with Victoria, the goddess of victory riding high. What a congruence of imagery! Jens was wonderful in having us pause at this site, giving us history, and then having us collectively pass through the gate. It seems to vibrate with history! The stories this gate could tell and has told are of great importance to Berlin.

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Here is where I accidentally ran into my Mom on her tour... smile ladies...

then, woosh we are off again!

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Whew! Lots to see and lots to do… I am hungry already. Off to our three-course lunch at Lemke Berlin. Now, I am in heaven! Nothing beats a good German meal with beer. We were served family style. This included a variety of sausages, pork, veal, potatoes, sauerkraut, and salad.

The best sauerkraut I have ever had… made perfectly with caraway seeds.

I chose Lemke’s home brew called Wiener Lagerbier (also known as Lemke Original) to drink. This beer is peppery, yet gentle with aromas of cocoa and bitter chocolate. It had a subtle kick and was delicious! To end on a sweet note, we had the most delectable apple strudel. This German Adventuress was very happy indeed

I look forward to sharing Part 2 (the afternoon) of my Berlin travels with you in my next post.

Until next time,

Your Polite Adventuress